Every sundown on the Pakistan, India border, crowds go wild and troopers goose-step in a chest-puffing theatrical ritual symbolising the nations’ antipathy 75 years after independence, however the show ends with a brisk, brotherly handshake.
Several hours earlier than the ceremony, enthusiastic spectators start trickling into sitting areas on both aspect of chunky iron gates separating the nuclear-armed Asian rivals on the Wagah-Attari frontier.
So shut that they will see the faces of individuals on the opposite aspect, energetic masters of ceremony and ear-splitting nationalistic songs chivvy up the crowds as Pakistani and Indian flags sway atop immense poles.
On the Indian aspect there’s area for 25,000 spectators — greater than on the opposite aspect — chanting “India Zindabad” (“long live India”) as a gaggle of ladies carry out with flags and dance wildly to the patriotic playlist.
Then the troopers arrive, stomping as much as the gate, kicking their legs up — the Indians in red-fanned hats and khaki uniforms, the Pakistanis in a dapper black.
The climax is when the gates open. One tall Indian soldier twirls his moustache with menacing intent and flexes his biceps, with equally lofty Pakistani troopers standing simply a few ft away.
Then the ceremony, formally often called Beating Retreat, attracts to a detailed with the reducing of the flags and a handshake. The flags are folded and the huge iron gates clunk shut.
“My blood is boiling. I also want to join the Indian army. Today’s show has filled me with nationalism,” stated Mangilal Vishnoi, 22, who travelled from Rajasthan to look at the ceremony along with his buddies.
Pakistan and India, which have fun 75 years of independence from Britain subsequent week, share deep cultural and linguistic hyperlinks however their historical past has been mired in violence and bloodshed.
They have been partitioned in 1947 into predominantly Hindu India and Muslim-majority Pakistan towards the backdrop of communal massacres and the motion of tens of millions of individuals.
The nations have since fought three wars, two of them over the disputed area of Kashmir, in addition to different army clashes.
The each day border ritual, which started in 1959, has largely endured, surviving innumerable diplomatic flare-ups and army skirmishes.
It is meant to be an emblem of cooperation however many of the spectators AFP spoke to stated they felt a robust sense of rivalry.
“It was like watching an India-Pakistan cricket game. There was so much drama and action,” stated housewife Nisha Soni, 25, who had Indian tricolour flags painted on her cheeks.