Savage x Fenty: Why intercourse nonetheless sells in girls’s trend


Rihanna models her valentines collection for Savage X FentyImage copyright Savage X Fenty
Image caption Rihanna fashions her Valentine’s assortment for Savage X Fenty

Modern trend has taught us that the road between the empowerment and the objectification of ladies is a tough one for manufacturers to tread.

With PrettyLittleThing coming underneath hearth from the Advertising Standards Authority for his or her overly sexualised promoting, shoppers are extra aware than ever of corporations who use intercourse attraction to promote to younger girls.

So how profitable is it to market girls’s clothes utilizing intercourse in a post-#MeToo period?

When performed proper, extremely.

Take the net retailer TechStyle Fashion Group, for instance. Its annual income topped $750m (£574m) final yr after including Rihanna’s Savage X Fenty label to its vary.

The singer’s clothes enterprise has made waves within the trend world by calling for inclusivity, variety and taking trend into the streaming age by hanging a cope with Amazon Prime.

And the important thing to its success has been the best way it places feminine need on the forefront, says Olga Mitterfellner, trend advertising and administration lecturer at The London College of Fashion.

It’s about making girls look good in their very own eyes, not the eyes of another person – specifically, males.

“Everything that the brand is doing is actually old school, but sold really well to young people and at the right time,” she says. “The female gaze is as old as Delilah, Cleopatra, Agnès Sorel [sometimes called the first official royal mistress] and Madame de Pompadour. But it is great to remind the next generation that they have choices, power and control over who they are and want to be.”

Image copyright Savage X Fenty
Image caption Rihanna’s lingerie line has been celebrated for capturing the feminine gaze

There has been a motion in trend towards feminine empowerment and inclusivity, enabled by social media, she believes.

“The open exchange between individual consumers through social networks has given them a channel to let brands know what they really think and want,” she says.

“I would say that people have always wanted inclusivity, but only now have brands found a way to make it financially lucrative on a large scale,” she says.

“As with most products out there, fashion brands are selling hope and dreams, which is now the hope of empowerment and inclusivity. But that doesn’t mean the customer actually will be empowered, fulfilled and feel included.”

She provides two examples to elucidate how the totally different approaches work.

“Fenty is marketing underwear with the idea that the woman is in control of her body, her love life and her choices,” she says.

“Victoria’s Secret for instance is advertising underwear with the concept that she will get a person to regulate her physique, her love life and the one alternative she has is to look skinny and seductive or else she has no likelihood in life.

“Both brands promise power through lingerie, though, but one is outdated.”

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Victoria’s Secret’s proprietor, L Brands, has seen its share value hunch as its famously sexualised promoting appeared more and more dated within the trendy period. They rebounded sharply in January on the information that its boss (Mr) Leslie Wexner was in talks to step down – elevating hopes of a contemporary approach.

While the American model as soon as favoured amongst younger girls has notoriously refused to adapt to a brand new period of feminine clients, manufacturers like Savage x Fenty, PrettyLittleThing and Missguided have been way more profitable.

The key to their success has been easy: listening to clients, says 21-year-old Nottingham Trent University trend graduate Lucy Legret.

And that does not imply shunning sexualised promoting altogether (although many, not simply from older generations, is likely to be completely happy to see much less of it).

“I think the younger generation are desensitised to overly sexual advertising, it’s all we’ve ever known,” she says.

Image copyright Lucy Legret
Image caption Lucy Legret says her era is desensitised to sexualised promoting

“I think the best thing a brand can do is to understand that feeling ‘sexy’ is different for every woman. Not every woman feels their most sexy in heels and a tight dress, it’s outdated,” she says.

“Whatever makes us confident can make us feel sexy.”

This sentiment is echoed by Emily, a 21-year-old who works for a trend journal. She says that manufacturers can nonetheless promote provocative clothes to girls – in the event that they do it in the precise manner.

“I think women definitely value diversity, and want to see themselves reflected in the advertising of fashion brands they are buying from,” she says.

“We want clothing that makes us feel empowered, with a focus on what makes us feel good – rather than just looking good for other people.”

Emily cites OhPolly as a model which treads the road rigorously between empowering girls to really feel attractive in themselves, and selling a selected perfect model of ladies which they can not ever meet.

“I’ve shopped at OhPolly just a few instances in your typical £10 evening out bodycon costume, however I desire to buy at different manufacturers like Topshop, Boohoo or PrettyLittleThing as a result of the clothes selections are much more various.

“If you look at their Instagram, even though the models are varied in terms of race, they do all look athletic and skinny which doesn’t represent all women,” she says.

But OhPolly additionally reveals how exhausting it may be to get it proper. It used to have a separate Instagram account for its footage of plus-size fashions – a coverage it ditched after a severe shopper backlash.

“Some aspects of their advertisement for their Valentine’s collection does feel like a late-night adult advert rather than fashion, but I think that if sexuality is framed as something empowering for women, and not just for the gratification of men, then it can still be used effectively to sell clothing,” says Emily.

“I don’t think brands should shy away from using sexuality to promote clothing. It doesn’t have to appear as though it is objectifying women as long as it is marketed in the right way.”